LOS VIEJOS CRAG

This obscure rock is located in the Redington Road area, approximately 2 miles north of the Bellota Ranch. The dirt road drive takes about an hour, as does the approach hike. The first 4 climbs done here were full rope-length crack climbs with no bolts, (except raps.) It’s a perfect winter area for someone looking for some fun, moderate climbing with a different view.

[ GPS: N 32* 21’ 23.0” W 110* 38’ 04.2” ]

Driving Approach: Take Tanque Verde Rd. east until it turns into Redington road. From the point where the road turns to dirt at the wash crossing, drive 7.2 miles to a left turn at the Bellota Ranch sign. Continue 3.6 miles until you’re almost at the ranch house and take a right, heading back north. 1.1 miles further you will arrive at the end of the road at a large camp area next to a wash. You should catch glimpses of the rock up on the hills as you drive the road. [~ 1 hr. drive time (11.9 mi.) from start of dirt; high-clearance helpful.]

Hiking Approach: Start hiking up blocked off road, which eventually turns into the wash. After ~30 min., and negotiating a few waterfall sections, the drainage takes a sharp right turn at a small left-side drainage and the rock comes into view up on the slope. The next left-side drainage has cairns that you follow for about 5 minutes. Look for cairns that cut out right and diagonal up to the base of the rock. (~ 1 hr. hike time.)

1. Follow The Dog, 5.10a - The first main corner on the crag (left to right) looks more like a gully at first. There is actually some good crack work and fun stemming to be done. The crux is the exit move at the top, where a #4 camalot gives you some confidence. The belay is at 2 bolts on a ledge just shy of the summit at ~160’. Rap the route with 2 ropes or walk off left. (Jeff Mayhew, John Diaz, 1-25-01)

2. Vegetative Impedance, 5.8 - To the right of #1 is a small “ledge,” which is a nice gear-up spot. Behind the tree on the left end of this ledge is a bulge with cracks. Follow the crack of least resistance and continue up, trying to avoid some cactus and other flora along the way. Natural belay. Same descent as #3. (J.M., Dave Henry, 2-4-01)

3. Mental Breadcrumbs, 5.8+ - On the right end of the “ledge” mentioned above is the start of a chimney/right-facing corner system. Climb this for a rope length to a natural belay. Look for a small nut placement and face moves to avoid the hard off-width section. Descent: Walk right from top of climb about 20’ and look for 2 bolts on face. Rap 120’ to ground. (Half of a 60m rope will get you to an easy downclimb.) (J.M., J.D., 1-25-01)

4. Hard Wired, 5.8+ - On a separate rock, a couple hundred feet to the right of Los Viejos, is an obvious crack splitting most of the rock. At its end, step left and finish up the smaller crack. Walk off left. (J.M., D.H., 2-4-01))

5. Micah Goes to Seattle, 5.10a Near the right end of Los Viejos Crag you'll see a large oak tree about halfway up. To the right is a huge "thumb" of rock. This climb finishes just right of the "thumb" above a tree. Start in a corner system behind an oak tree. The climb is 162' so belay as high as close to the rock as possible. (Double ropes recommended due to wandery nature.) Climb right face of corner past bolt to a bulge where a step left leads up to a right leaning corner with avoidable loose blocks at the base. Climb steep corner past a bolt, exiting left at a bolt, about 20' from the end of the corner. Up past another bolt to engage a chimney off a large ledge. Good stopper placements lead to a bolt. Continue up past tree to 2-bolt belay on right side of chimney. (J.M., Micah Lambeth, Charlie King, 2/04)

	Topo of the Los Viejos Crag showing Follow the Dog (5.10a), Vegetative Impedance (5.8), Mental Breadcrumbs (5.8+) and Micah goes to Seattle (5.10a).
	Topo of Hard Wired (5.8+).