First New Area
According to Eric Fazio-Rhicard in "Squeezing the lemmon II...", there are 27 routes in Munchkinland. Of these, only 2 are rated at less than 5.10. In the spring of 2001, Scott Ayers and associates added 16 new routes in Munchkinland, 11 of which are under 5.10 and 14 of which are bolted. With 41 bolted climbs from 5.7 to 5.11, this area has becomea very popular area to climb in. In the summer of 2002, Scott has added another seven climbs to the area - with six climbs under 5.10 and two climbs under 5.6. Munchkinland has become a "full-service" climbing area - climbers of any level can climb there and find plenty of routes at their level.
Most of the routes in Munchkinland are bolted and have anchors at the top. Scott has used a distinctive style of anchor with one anchor being a large Metolius bolt hanger with the lower internal surface being smoothed and rounded to allow the rope to pass. The other anchor is a multi-link chain anchor (around six links) attached to another Metolius bolt hanger.
To get to the first new area in Munchkinland, follow the directions in "Squeezing the lemmon II..." for Munchkinland (Wall of the Marching Munchkins). As you start to drop down hill to the wall, there will be a strip of rocks and stones heading to the west across a slab. These parallel lines of stones define a walking path to the new area. Keep on the path and follow the cairns to the new area. Scott (or someone) has spend a great deal of time cleaning the path and marking the trail. The only way the trail could be improved is to pour concrete for sidewalks.
In keeping with the trail improvement, there has been a lot of work improving the area underneath the climbs. Manzanita bush and trees have been trimmed to make room for climbers. The wall faces to the southeast and should be in the shade after around 2:00 in the afternoon - making for cool (relatively speaking) afternoon climbing in the summer.
The newest climbs/information are highlighted in red (9/15/2002)
1. Steep and pumpy, left of big Juniper tree - 5.8.
To get to the second new area in Munchkinland, again follow the directions in "Squeezing the lemmon II..." for Munchkinland (Wall of the Marching Munchkins). Right before the Munchkin Wall, there are two pillars. These pillars contain the climbs.
The newest climbs/information are highlighted in red (9/15/2002)
1. Climb in orange stain - 5.11A or 5.11B
2. We Wish To Welcome You - 5.10A [Upgrade to 5.10B]
3. Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip There - 5.9
4. The Munchkin Coroner - 5.8 - R/X (this is a gear lead following a seam
between #3 and #5) [Can be top-roped from #5]
5. Wash and Brush Up Co. - 5.10A
6. Climb in the chimney, bolts are on the right. Stay in the
chimney then move out onto the face to the right - 5.6.
7. 12 bolts and about 80' tall, "great climbing" - 5.7+ to 5.8.
8. Toto Goes to Chicago, 10 bolts - 5.9.
9. 8 to 9 bolts to right below the "wild hanging peanut" - 5.6 to 5.7.
10. Lullabye League - 5.7+
11. 6 bolts with big buckets and easy climbing. A good first lead or warm-up- 5.4.
12. Angling and easy climbing. Another good first lead or warm-up - 5.5.
Climb #6. Up the chimney between the two pillars. |
Climbers on climbs #9 and #10 (Lullabye League) |