Rupley Route

Pitch 1
Pitch 2
Pitch 3/4

This is a preliminary description of the Rupley Route on the Fortress.

Directions and topos to the Rupley Route and the Fortress can be found in "Squeezing the Lemmon II..." by Eric Fazio Rhicard.

John Rupley aid climbing through the 'bulge' section of the Rupley Route on the Fortress.

Pitch 1

	The first pitch of the Rupley Route as viewed from the bottom of the climb.
	This bulgy section on the first pitch is the crux of the climb. It was requested that I take many photos of this section, so I took three photos. The location of two bolts is labeled on all three photos. Note that there are four bolts in this section.
	Another photo of the bulge on the first pitch.
	Another photo of the bulge on the first pitch - with rope and quickdraws.
	The final approach to the first belay.
	The anchors at the first belay - at the top of the first pitch.

Pitch 2

The second pitch is fairly easy with very little protection. The anchors for "Steel Crazy" are about halfway up the second pitch and can be used if so desired. The second belay is up in the chimney at the end of the rope.

The second and third pitch are labeled on this photo.

The anchors at the top of the second pitch

The belay at the top of the second pitch has a single questionable bolt. Use additional gear to create a belay - not like in the photo.

Joe at the second belay.

Pitch 3/4

	View of the third pitch from the second belay. The locations of the next four photos is labeled on the photo. Note that there are approximately four bolts at the beginning of the third pitch.
	A) Start of crack on the third pitch. Note the two bolts.
	B) More crack with gear protection. This is the crux secion of the third pitch.
	C) More crack with the view to the third belay. Note that we climbed with a 70 meter rope and passed the third belay by. EFR says this can be done with a 60 meter rope but there won't be much rope left over.
	D) This bolt is usually used to set up the third belay - in addtion to gear placed in the crack. Note that there are two bolts above this bolt, protecting the crux move of the fourth pitch.
	The last section of the climb - chickenheads to the final belay.
	The anchors at the top of the climb.