Wasteland

---

• Pitch 1
• Pitch 2
• Pitch 3
• Pitch 4
• Pitch 5
• Pitch 6
• Rappels

Bob Kerry, in his guidebook "Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona", says that Wasteland is ... "The best 5.8 in the state." I haven't done enough 5.8 climbs in the state to know whether this is true or not, but I certainly enjoyed the climbing on Wasteland. The climbing is relatively easy but there is some serious exposure on pitches 3 through 5. There is a great variety of rock climbing on Wasteland with most of the exposed climbing being on chickenheads.

The route does an unusual amount of wandering and great attention should be paid to the descriptions in either "Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona" by Bob Kerry or "A Falcon Guide: Rock Climbing Arizona" by Stewart M. Green. Because of the wandering nature, Wasteland is a climb that you wouldn't want to have to bail on. Make sure the weather is good and that your climbing party can move fairly quick and steady. As far as climbing time, when Joe and I climbed it, we left at 6:15 am from Speedway and Pantano and were back in 12 hours (Joe had climbed the route before so there was no route finding and the climbing party was small).

Directions and topos can be found in "Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona" by Bob Kerry or "A Falcon Guide: Rock Climbing Arizona" by Stewart M. Green. Besides the descriptions of the climb, Bob Kerry also has topos and detailed instructions for the descent. One bad move on the descent could result in an all night epic so make sure you consult his guidebook before doing the climb.

	The first pitch of Wasteland as viewed from the bottom of the climb. The Boiler Plate Arete is labelled as a reference point.
	BK Rating: 5.7 SMG Rating: 5.7 Top

	View to the right of the first belay - at the bottom of the second pitch. The rope is in the foreground. For pitch 2, first traverse right, then head up the crack.
	The crack on pitch 2.
	BK Rating: 5.8 SMG Rating: 5.8 Top

	The chimney on pitch 3 as viewed from the second belay.
	The view of the Boiler Plate Arete from the second belay.
	The view of the Boiler Plate Arete from on top of the chimney.
	The belay at the top of pitch 3.
	BK Rating: 5.8 SMG Rating: 5.8 Top

	The view down from the third belay. The Boiler Plate Arete, chimney, and crack on the second pitch are labeled.
	Another view down from the third belay. Again, the Boiler Plate Arete, chimney, and crack on the second pitch are labeled.
	The fourth pitch as viewed from the third belay. The fourth pitch traverses under the roof and then goes up and over it at the right end.
	Another view of the fourth pitch as viewed from the third belay.
	BK Rating: 5.8 SMG Rating: 5.8 Top

	Downward view from the fourth belay.
	View of the fifth pitch from the fourth belay.
	BK Rating: 5.8 SMG Rating: 5.8 Top

	View of the sixth pitch and the top from the fifth belay. The location of the bolt is labeled.
	Joe on top of Wasteland.
	Bob on top of Wasteland.
	BK Rating: 5.6 SMG Rating: 5.6 - 5.8 Top

	Joe on the first rappel from the anchors at the top of the climb.
	Joe on the second rappel from an oak tree.
	The journey to the third rappel. Getting from the second to third rappel is where it would be easy to get confused and the start of an epic would be most likely. See "Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona" by Bob Kerry for detailed instructions on how to get down from the climb.
	Joe on the third rappel.
	The fourth rappel - from another oak tree.
	Top